2017 Domaine Christian Moreau Chablis Grand Cru "Vaudesir"

SKU #1454692 94 points Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

 Aromas of wheat toast, orange rind and green apple mingle with suggestions of oyster shell and vanilla pod in an incipiently complex bouquet, introducing Moreau's 2017 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir, a full-bodied, supple and satiny wine that's notably concentrated—reflecting its meager yield of nine hectoliters per hectare—with ripe acids, an elegantly muscular profile and a long, lingering finish. It was matured entirely in wood. As I wrote last year, Fabien Moreau presides over this 11.5-hectare domaine—including fully six hectares of grand cru—that has been certified organic since 2010. The Chablis AOC is the only cuvée where the domaine's holdings are supplemented by some purchased grapes. Hand harvesting followed by fermentation and élevage on the lees in a mixture of stainless steel, used barrels and new barrels is the order of the day here, with some of the higher appellations seeing up to 10% new oak. Concentrated and keenly balanced, it's an impressive range; but for those who are averse to the flavors and aromas of new oak in Chablis—the present writer included—a few years' bottle age is essential to allow the wines to digest their wood component. The domaine's 2018s, tasted very early in their élevage, show promise. (WK)  (8/2019)

93 points Allen Meadows - Burghound

 More subtle if not invisible oak envelops the gently exotic aroma of white peach, orange peel, spice and quinine scents. The delicious and refined, indeed almost delicate, flavors exude a fine bead of minerality that really comes up on the detailed, saline and lingering citrus-tinged finish where the wood telegraphed by the nose resurfaces. Lovely juice with fine potential.  (10/2019)

93 points James Suckling

 A rather restrained and flinty nose with such intense crushed stones and flinty nuances of lemon peel and lime. The palate has a supple, succulent and gently creamy peach core. Grapefruit here, too, sliding elegant and long into the mineral finish. Drink or hold.  (7/2019)

93 points Vinous

 The 2017 Chablis Vaudésir Grand Cru is intensely mineral and savory in style. Dried herbs, licorice, honey, chamomile, and earthy tones dominate, while the fruit is very much in the background. A Chablis of structure and power, Vaudésir has plenty to offer. It is one of the most distinctive and also reticent wines in this lineup. I would give it a few years to soften. The saline finish is very pretty and bodes well for the future. (AG)  (1/2020)

92 points Wine Spectator

 Harmony and a supple texture are the hallmarks of this well-integrated white, creating an ideal foil for lemon tart, apple and baking spice flavors. Firms up on the finish, with a hint of stone. Best from 2020 through 2025.  (12/2019)

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Price: $89.99

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